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知道我要到拉脫維亞旅行,眾人一律不推薦。一個匈牙利朋友含蓄地說:「那裡有什麼你特別想看的嗎?」另一個斯洛伐克的朋友:「去斯洛伐克吧!推薦你幾個地方!」「相信我啦!拉脫維亞真的很沒趣!」另一個烏克蘭朋友急著說。

事實上,這些朋友一個也沒去過拉脫維亞,這麼一逕地反推薦,倒讓我很訝異,拉脫維亞的觀光局實在應該好好檢討,重新包裝該國。

自大使館抱了一堆資料回來,這個國家倒是老實,在旅遊當局印製給旅客的導引簡介上,除了必備的地理、人文資料,還要特別註明:入夜後盡量結伴成行,之前已有許多遊人深夜自餐館酒吧出來後遇劫;水質不佳,自來水引用前請先煮開;市區空污水污情形嚴重…。沒看過觀光單位這麼喝自己倒彩的!

果然造訪拉脫維亞的人次少之又少,連續兩次至大使館接洽簽證事宜,整個早上簽證處就只見我一人到訪,與之前辦理斯洛伐克、波蘭、斯洛維尼亞等國簽證的摩肩擦踵情形有若天壤。


** 小國不小

從來都習於稱呼愛沙尼亞、拉脫維亞、立陶宛為「波羅的海三小國」,實際上,三國中即使領土面積最小的愛沙尼亞,四萬五千餘平方公里的國境都比台灣大上將近一萬平方公里。而拉脫維亞的面積,正巧就是台灣的一點五倍大。

十九世紀以前,此境被日爾曼人、波蘭人、瑞典人、俄羅斯人勢力輪番統治,尤其日爾曼族宰治此境長達六百餘年,即便至今領境內多為維拉脫維亞人及俄羅斯人,德式風格建築影響猶在,而德語之普遍更是不下於英語。

倒是進入二十世紀,前蘇維埃政府將拉脫維亞納入版圖,許多拉脫維亞人喪生於戰役中,大量俄羅斯人遷住拉脫維亞,俄羅斯文化影響力大增,甚至到了二十一世紀,首都Riga的最大族裔還是俄羅斯人,而非拉脫維亞人;不是官方國語的俄羅斯語,則有超過百分之九十五的人懂得,比例還較拉脫維亞語高。

九三年拉脫維亞脫離蘇維埃社會主義聯邦獨立,開始強調在地化與國族認同,原有住民並非人人皆得取得公民身分,除非通過一連串拉脫維亞語、歷史文化之考試,否則將不具公民資格。因此,據悉境內還有超過兩成的人民沒有公民身分,當然俄羅斯政府對此總要大加撻伐,而兩族間的紛爭與擾攘也從未間斷。又是一個政治凌駕生活的爭端與惡例!


與旅館人員攀談,地理距離近、語言不成問題,俄羅斯人一直是此境觀光客之大宗,即使近年來來自芬蘭、瑞典、德國旅客大增,數目還是遠遠不若鄰境的俄羅斯與白俄羅斯。對於俄羅斯,小國拉脫維亞實在是又愛又恨。

** 百年之咒

拉脫維亞明年(二○○四年)即將加入歐盟,但經濟水平仍然極低,平均每人國內生產毛額(GDP)僅達三千餘美元,約是原有歐盟國家的二成水平不到。我在夕暮時分抵達Riga,前往落腳Hostel的路上,果然看見許多斑駁破舊的宅舍;路面上,一般車道狀況猶好,但人行道則多是老舊殘破、黃土紛飛極不平坦;道路上許多九人座旅行車改裝的小型公車,公車內乘坐擁擠,肩必並肩,遇到內座的人欲下車,坐在外側的人還得先下車讓行。

入住的Hostel其實是校園的學生宿舍,在暑假期間充當臨時青年旅館。設備算是簡單素淨,櫃檯上沒有電腦,入住或退房得透過手工謄繕在一本訪客住宿簿上。

我乘坐大型公車入城,車上沒有制服、僅繫識別牌的車掌前來向我收取票費,嚴肅而專注,我偷偷觀察這個二十來歲的年輕男子:個子不高、身形纖瘦有些痀慺,所著過於寬大的T恤上泛著幾點黑漬,墨黑西裝褲下一雙球鞋看得出來伴他經年;一雙眼,在雜亂的髮際下顯得深邃、悠遠,但回到專屬座位上眼神卻空洞洞地望向車外…


首都Riga,幾百年來都是波羅的海東岸的貨物集散、交通輻奏之處,只不過城市繁景被二十世紀以來的政治波瀾嚴重搗毀,如今雖然仍是波羅的海三國中之最大城,但政經影響力已大不如前。愛沙尼亞的首都塔林(Tallinn)北借芬蘭之勢與西歐靠得很近,立陶宛的Vilnius則南倚波蘭及德國另求奧援,如今的Riga,因地理位置之不佳,只能努力朝發展觀光業另闢蹊徑。

即將越河進入舊城,在河的這岸一眼撇見這個被聯合國教科文組織訂為人類文化遺址的Riga古城,氣味很似同在波羅的海畔的斯德哥爾摩。舊城區很可見拉脫維亞政府的大力整治維繕,建築物雖舊卻新,與郊區景緻大異其趣。城裡的氣氛如同克拉科、布拉格一類之任一歐洲古城,典雅、秀麗。只不過Riga的遊客實在無多,在城裡漫步一天只遇到一群乘著維京遊輪自瑞典芬蘭而來的半日遊遊客,其餘的,就是三三兩兩的散客。

在Daugava河岸遠眺北境落日,我回想著到訪過的波羅的海彼岸的赫爾辛基或是斯德哥爾摩發展的榮景,總是很難想像,一海之隔,怎麼會有如此的咫尺天涯?

回Hostel的路上,遠遠、遠遠才一盞的路燈吃力地照著漆黑的街道,幾間營業的餐廳內透出微微的光芒,餐廳外露天桌椅的所有客人幾乎都在近乎昏暗的環境中飲餐、酌酒、聊天。


摸著黑回到住所,我在想,拉國的基礎建設果然還有好大的進步空間。

今年歐洲天候異常酷熱,熱浪北襲波羅的海,據當地人說法是全部的Riga住民都到海邊或河邊去泡水消暑去了。雖然誇飾成分居多,不過隔日我乘船沿著Babites ezers 河西行至Riga西側濱波羅的海的旅遊聖境Jurmala,一個多小時的航程,河道兩旁,果然盡是舉家泡水游泳行日光浴的景緻。

Jurmala是蘇維埃時代以來此地的度假勝地,”到Jurmala度假”尤其是蘇維埃政府犒賞表現出色幹部、工人之最佳禮物。濱海的白色沙灘綿延三十公里,北襯湛藍的波羅的海,很是一番景緻。沙灘一眼望不盡長長延伸而去,所到的每一處還是擠了滿滿的人,可以想見人數之多。來此度假的人據言六七成以上都是俄羅斯人,果然我一望去盡是我熟悉的「卡菲尼可夫」、「庫妮可娃」式臉孔的男男女女(突然對於自己對俄羅斯人的陌生與刻板印象感到微微的自慚)。

似乎,從這裡透露出了拉脫維亞欲發展觀光業所擁有的潛力啟點。


乘船再回Riga,已近黃昏。舊城廣場出乎意料擠滿了人,就著露天餐座飲酒聊天,一片嗡嚷。傍晚十點,天色漸黑,聖彼得大教堂(St. Peter’s Church)旁,The blackheads house的燈光亮起,將這個廿一世紀才又仿古重建的建築照得金碧輝煌。似乎,新拉脫維亞的新Riga因此也顯得光耀異常、前景可期!

像是旅遊導覽上所寫,美麗的Riga已經慢慢醒轉,準備再顯風華。人民尤是寄望來年加入歐盟後,重新活絡此國政經文化,與國際接軌,尋回拉脫維亞昔時的風采。

也對,數百年前哪位童話作者筆下的善良仙子不也曾預言:「誤觸紡錘的公主並不會死去,只是會沉沉睡去一百年…」?

封城的藤蔓漸漸散開,百年之咒,終於要解開。

Tags:

140 Responses to “[拉脫維亞] 百年之咒 – 我見拉脫維亞”

  1. it’s beautiful!

  2. 拉脫維亞是個冷門的旅遊地方,看到有人介紹還挺有意思的。

    另外,我覺得版主的文章有點眼熟,
    請問有在【探索人文地理雜誌】發表過嗎?

  3. 文章並沒有在【探索人文地理雜誌】發表過,但有收錄在我2004年出版的「不能停止的世界地圖-26國50個大城小鎮的晃蕩記事」一書裡。
    Anthony

  4. 一直很期待去拉脫維亞,這篇文章很具吸引力啊。

  5. 一直很想去東歐三小國 東歐不熱門的國家實在少人去
    謝謝你的文章讓我多學習這個國家

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