貴氣逼人金閣寺

京都的金閣寺去了兩次,雖然我並不特別喜愛這裡。
聽說金閣寺的名氣與富士山齊名,我想應該沒錯,因為即使沒看過三島由紀夫的小說,也絕不會沒聽過《金閣寺》這本小說吧?

我對於三島由紀夫的小說不感興趣,但十年前第一次到京都還是免不了到金閣寺一遊。那年兩個女生拿著地圖搭公車,被站名所迷惑的我們來來回回走了幾趟才找到參道入口。十年後再次來到金閣寺,雖然不若十年前的慌亂緊張,但已沒有昔日記憶的我還是小小迷了一下路。


對於金閣寺的印象就是「金碧輝煌」,第二回參觀才多用了點心,其實這座「舍利殿」線條優雅十分美麗。金閣寺的正式名稱是鹿苑禪寺,是室町時代的代表建築,也曾經是日本政治的中樞,外牆貼滿金箔的舍利殿有三層,各採不同建築式樣。第一層是稱為「法水院」的寢殿造樣式、第二層是住宅風格的武家造、第三層是禪宗式樣,稱為「究竟頂」。隔著鏡湖池遠眺,兩座金光閃閃的金閣寺相互輝映的確美麗,也難怪金閣寺總是人潮洶湧-它應該是全日本參觀費收入最多的寺院吧?


第二次重遊多了時間慢慢逛逛這個已經被指定為國指定特別史跡的池泉迴游式庭園。我對庭園不太感興趣,倒是對於庭園裡的茶室有點好奇,後來查了資料才知道「夕佳亭」是十分著名的數寄屋造茶室,一八九四年重建至今也有一百多年的歷史,維護的很好,一點都沒有歲月的痕跡,果然不愧是千年京都啊!

金閣寺的確很美,不過對我來說還是太貴氣了,我想舊地重遊的機會怕是不多了吧?





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