那智瀑布與那智大社

 

話說從速玉大社趕回車站,十分幸運剛好有車可搭,最棒的是車上沒有吵鬧的學生。日本人對於環保的議題很注意也非常徹底實施,最明顯的是幾年前去時還覺得電車裡的冷氣很冷,現在則幾乎都是弱冷車廂了。那天我們搭的電車更妙,停在月台候車時車廂裡沒有冷氣,天氣很熱,忽然車廂另一頭的婆婆走到我身邊,按了牆上的按鈕-神奇的事發生啦-頭頂的風扇開始轉了起來,原來這風扇是手動的耶!

從新宮到那智沿路的風景非常美,是碧綠蔚藍、無比吸引人的太平洋,每到那種無人又近得能從車站看到海邊的小站我就非常想下車,現在想來有些後悔沒跟旅伴打商量,只是當時要是任性的下了車,那智大社應該就去不了了吧!

到了那智站時發生了小小驚險的事-我們差點下不了車。話說我們已經背好包包準備下車,卻不知怎麼車廂門一直沒有打開,正疑惑時,偏偏身邊的爺爺竟拿著車票問我到站了嗎,可是他車票上的站名早過了,我急著想知道怎麼下車,又不知怎麼跟爺爺說他坐過頭,正慌亂時身邊的婆婆們指著第一節車廂要我過去,定睛一看列車長就站在遠方看著我,顧不得爺爺兩個人拔腿就跑,深怕列車長不等我們。

匆匆下了車,旅伴才說他記得曾經在高木直子的書看過伊勢線有這種「下車法」,我也看過那本書,但這種兵荒馬亂的時候誰想的起來啊!說著出了車站又是一嚇,這裡的無人車站也太無人了,站前一片荒涼(兩個人震驚的忘了拍照)…熊野三社不是世界文化遺產嗎?完全無法從驚嚇指數百分百的情緒裡恢復的我呆呆看著一同下車的伯伯搭了計程車揚長而去。從事貧窮旅行的二人組自然無法如此瀟灑,很認真的研究了巴士的車班表後發現立刻就會有車到,看來一路認真祈福有效啦!LUCKY

 

兩點十八分巴士準時出現,兩個人終於鬆口氣快樂上車,根據旅遊書記載要在大門坂前下車,但是當公車到了大門坂我卻不敢下車,因為這裡離山上距離還好遠(根本還在山腳下)!到底怎麼從大門坂爬到那智大社?我不想冒險(我的腳痛的跟美人魚沒兩樣),反正真的坐過頭了,了不起再搭回來嘛,抱著這樣必死的決心,兩個人繼續搭著公車上山,一路神經緊繃的盯著每站站名,車子行走在很蜿蜒陡峭的上坡路,好像過了很久終於看到「那智瀑布」的站名,兩人二話不說立刻按了下車鈴。

在那智瀑布站下車,一下車就看到往那智瀑布的鳥居,這裡的山路極狹窄但路旁的小小停車場還是停了兩三輛遊覽車,原來大家都是搭遊覽車來的,所以車站才那麼荒涼?這裡的觀光客不少,從鳥居往下走時碰到的那一團是韓國團。

那智瀑布非常有名且優美,名列日本瀑布百選之首行列,那智瀑布的水也因有法師曾在此祈禱而有長壽水的稱號。不過對我來說那智瀑布因為是電視裡常出現修行畫面的瀑布而想來一探究竟。幾年前看過的電視映像,親自置身其中看起來完全一致,也就是說這麼多年這裡似乎沒變。在日本旅行這樣的事好像也不是可以大驚小怪,就像隔了十年再拜訪廣隆寺的感覺一樣,似乎在神的領地裡時間都是靜止的,千百年來都是如此風景,也難怪這一條「紀伊山地の霊場と参詣道」會被列為世界文化遺產了。

 

從那智瀑布可以走路到那智大社,只不過是上坡路,消耗體力。而且路的另一邊就是綠油油的山……由此可知我們的確在山裡。這段「緩坡」花了我們大概15分鐘,原以為坡道的盡頭就是那智大社,誰知我根本就是想太多,坡道盡頭不過是爬上那智大社無窮無盡階梯的起點罷了!

又熱又累的兩人決定先看好回程巴士的時間再面對現實,公車站在一間商店的門口,這時已三點,商量決定搭4:25往紀伊勝浦的巴士,不再回到那智的無人車站,決定好回程的時間後再無可拖延的理由,深吸一口氣慢慢往上爬。

日本傳統的宗教是神道教,佛教是外來宗教,通常「寺」與「神社」各自供奉各自的神佛,但是熊野三社卻是獨特的神佛一體同時供奉的信仰。這裡的八咫烏是傳說中居住在太陽中的三足神鳥,在神武天皇東征到熊野灘登岸時引導方向。三足代表的是智、仁、勇,也有另一種說法是天、地、人,也有人說黑色的鳥代表的是太陽的黑子…千年以前的人眼睛那麼厲害?可以看到太陽的黑子嗎?

 

往那智大社的階梯其實沒有比金刀比羅宮的階梯多,但是比較陡,而且沿途除了幾家賣名產那智黑石的商家外沒有任何商店可分散注意,實在爬得很辛苦。

那智大社也沒有想像中古老,不過我們剛到時神社裡的工作人員正在打掃,看著幾個十分年輕的孩子穿著巫女服拿著竹掃帚打掃,輕聲說話,感覺還蠻有時間錯置感與一絲絲失落感-之前完全不知如何規劃的熊野三社參拜之行竟然就這麼糊裡糊塗的完成了。
This entry was posted on 2010/03/08 at 23:57 and is filed under 日本. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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