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Ramadan在聚利亞

2009/10/13 By admin 78 In 其他

一個人為了行動更方便, 出發前買了面罩。很多時只包頭巾，從沒把眼睛及面孔蓋上。這一身像是束縛著阿拉伯女子的傳統打扮，卻給我額外的活動自由。

穿長袍、包頭紗的感覺像小袋鼠躲藏在媽媽的腹袋裏，只有頭部活動著，窺探著外面的世界，對外面的世界充滿著懷疑及不信任。

這的確是她們的內心感受，也是她們給外界的感覺。若把面紗再蓋上的話，就像把一個露營帳篷套上身上，靠著光線的反射，從面紗背面布料上線與線交織間的線蓬透視外面的世界。躲在帳蓬內走動的感覺，像到了另一空間。與外面世界的溝通馬上拆斷。外面的人像忘記了你的存在，而你就像一團捲上紫菜的飯團般愚弱及無殺傷力。

但從面紗背後，卻見到阿拉伯人最真的面孔。意想不到的是，全身蒙蓋起來後，仍受到不少滋擾及恃意侵犯。可想而知，阿拉伯女子每天也訝忍著這些男人的欺負。

這次蒙上了面紗，更存細的踏足聚利亞及與聚利亞朋友一起渡過Ramadan與開齋節，對阿拉伯文化有進一步的體會，希望把一些零散的片段記錄下來，為下一批將要到中東學習、體驗、工作或旅遊的香港人作一小小的參考。也希望更多香港人了解阿拉伯文化，認識另一套思想模式及價值觀。

阿拉伯世界很大很美，包含約二十多個國家，主要是沙漠氣候、境志及文化；羅馬遺蹟及依斯蘭文化遺產等。海灣地區的文化與阿拉伯大陸的文化差異大，要體驗百分百的阿拉伯文化，非到內陸不可。

在這裏數年間，做過不少不同種類的翻譯，從中得知很多國際企業公司及政府部們的黑色檔案，把我多年來想當畫家的熱忱再次擦動起來，（我要做畫家！我要做畫家！）不想幫他們做事的原由而起。以前一直覺得很多畫家很奇怪，也想不通為什麼畫家要當畫家，現在好像有點了解，自我、不滿現實及有一顆熱心。

見過很多案件的處理手法，荒旦兒戲，說起來像編織的故事。開始時，對殘暴及不公有惻忍之心，慢慢變得緘默及心腸結石起來, 變得騎鳥起來。

Ramadan期間，到依斯蘭教國家旅遊對非依斯蘭教徒來說，可能頗為沉悶，白天空街空巷，晚上開齋以後車水馬龍，像是全世界的人均爭著出來透透氣。飢餓令人情緒底落，沒精打采的樣子是Ramadan期間的招牌模樣。Ramadan同時也成為他們的皇牌，一切失誤有了公式的藉口。

Ramadan期間整月白天禁水禁食，關鍵是意志及對慾望的控制，不想不餓，越想越餓。Ramadan過後的首天開齋節的確是有點陣憾，像感覺到整個阿拉伯世界齊齊張開桌布，圍坐在地上進餐的歡樂氣氛。

聚利亞很多房屋的佈置均是四面高牆環繞，窗口均設於高於門欖頂部位置，屋內只有天井那一片天空與外界接觸，環繞天井是多個房間，住著整戶大宅的入口。

各家各户的大門均是厚度十足，密不透風的大鐵閘，駐守著的是一家大大小小的婦女，長年累月足不出戶，對外面的世界一知半解，整天除了照瞭小孩、處理家處以外的時間，便是呆坐家中，雙目像凝固了的果凍一樣死板及濟悶，眼簾皮膚因長期不受外界刺激組織鬆馳而下墮，眼神裏一點要爭扎的念頭也完完全全被身處環境淹滅，無奈得叫人呐喊。

單身女子遊走，多時會引起阿拉伯男子怒目凝視，像犯了什麼家規、教規一樣。在眾多家訪中，看見很多男人恃意指點喝罵家中的女性，以展示他們的權力。男孩子跟女生說話時也是用手碰碰撞撞。

一直以來均有阿拉伯朋友以層出不窮的方法勸誘加入依斯蘭教，更有些人玩文字遊戲，利用押韻、順口流等誘使誦出誓詞。直至現再還沒有一點觸動，不會隨意改教。

叧外，也顧慮到他們可能會把他們的生活方式及道德標準強加身上。很多人語勢持持的聲明尊重其他宗教，但約遇到其他人仕批評或質疑他們的信念時，他們會以一切的方式去捍衞。但在這裏生活經驗中體會到他們對這句話的傳譯，包括他人以與他們相異的生活方式或不應同他們的宗教觀點時，他們均視為冒犯，更不惜動武。

很多朋友問，宗教那麼虔誠的人，為什麼常動武，這點可能是原因之一。另一存在因素是貧窮、受教育率低。很多阿拉伯人不太深諳經文，甚或不識字，往往被一小眾人仕向他們灌予思想，深信只有依斯蘭才有他們現有的權利。與外界的接觸越多，他們開始認識到其他原來也同樣可行的生活方式。

阿拉伯國家女子文盲率偏高，貧窮是其中一最主要原因，而女子往往是發展中國家的先頭受害者，希望盡所能去幫助她們。阿拉伯國家除了大學教育是男女混合制外，全是男女分校的。在沙特阿拉伯，男教師更不能面對面直接教授女學生，只能透過媒體對答，而只有女學生才能從電視營幕看見男教師，男教師從沒有看過女生的模樣。

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