一個人為了行動更方便, 出發前買了面罩。很多時只包頭巾,從沒把眼睛及面孔蓋上。這一身像是束縛著阿拉伯女子的傳統打扮,卻給我額外的活動自由。
穿長袍、包頭紗的感覺像小袋鼠躲藏在媽媽的腹袋裏,只有頭部活動著,窺探著外面的世界,對外面的世界充滿著懷疑及不信任。
這的確是她們的內心感受,也是她們給外界的感覺。若把面紗再蓋上的話,就像把一個露營帳篷套上身上,靠著光線的反射,從面紗背面布料上線與線交織間的線蓬透視外面的世界。躲在帳蓬內走動的感覺,像到了另一空間。與外面世界的溝通馬上拆斷。外面的人像忘記了你的存在,而你就像一團捲上紫菜的飯團般愚弱及無殺傷力。
但從面紗背後,卻見到阿拉伯人最真的面孔。意想不到的是,全身蒙蓋起來後,仍受到不少滋擾及恃意侵犯。可想而知,阿拉伯女子每天也訝忍著這些男人的欺負。
這次蒙上了面紗,更存細的踏足聚利亞及與聚利亞朋友一起渡過Ramadan與開齋節,對阿拉伯文化有進一步的體會,希望把一些零散的片段記錄下來,為下一批將要到中東學習、體驗、工作或旅遊的香港人作一小小的參考。也希望更多香港人了解阿拉伯文化,認識另一套思想模式及價值觀。
阿拉伯世界很大很美,包含約二十多個國家,主要是沙漠氣候、境志及文化;羅馬遺蹟及依斯蘭文化遺產等。海灣地區的文化與阿拉伯大陸的文化差異大,要體驗百分百的阿拉伯文化,非到內陸不可。
在這裏數年間,做過不少不同種類的翻譯,從中得知很多國際企業公司及政府部們的黑色檔案,把我多年來想當畫家的熱忱再次擦動起來,(我要做畫家!我要做畫家!)不想幫他們做事的原由而起。以前一直覺得很多畫家很奇怪,也想不通為什麼畫家要當畫家,現在好像有點了解,自我、不滿現實及有一顆熱心。
見過很多案件的處理手法,荒旦兒戲,說起來像編織的故事。開始時,對殘暴及不公有惻忍之心,慢慢變得緘默及心腸結石起來, 變得騎鳥起來。
Ramadan期間,到依斯蘭教國家旅遊對非依斯蘭教徒來說,可能頗為沉悶,白天空街空巷,晚上開齋以後車水馬龍,像是全世界的人均爭著出來透透氣。飢餓令人情緒底落,沒精打采的樣子是Ramadan期間的招牌模樣。Ramadan同時也成為他們的皇牌,一切失誤有了公式的藉口。
Ramadan期間整月白天禁水禁食,關鍵是意志及對慾望的控制,不想不餓,越想越餓。Ramadan過後的首天開齋節的確是有點陣憾,像感覺到整個阿拉伯世界齊齊張開桌布,圍坐在地上進餐的歡樂氣氛。
聚利亞很多房屋的佈置均是四面高牆環繞,窗口均設於高於門欖頂部位置,屋內只有天井那一片天空與外界接觸,環繞天井是多個房間,住著整戶大宅的入口。
各家各户的大門均是厚度十足,密不透風的大鐵閘,駐守著的是一家大大小小的婦女,長年累月足不出戶,對外面的世界一知半解,整天除了照瞭小孩、處理家處以外的時間,便是呆坐家中,雙目像凝固了的果凍一樣死板及濟悶,眼簾皮膚因長期不受外界刺激組織鬆馳而下墮,眼神裏一點要爭扎的念頭也完完全全被身處環境淹滅,無奈得叫人呐喊。
單身女子遊走,多時會引起阿拉伯男子怒目凝視,像犯了什麼家規、教規一樣。在眾多家訪中,看見很多男人恃意指點喝罵家中的女性,以展示他們的權力。男孩子跟女生說話時也是用手碰碰撞撞。
一直以來均有阿拉伯朋友以層出不窮的方法勸誘加入依斯蘭教,更有些人玩文字遊戲,利用押韻、順口流等誘使誦出誓詞。直至現再還沒有一點觸動,不會隨意改教。
叧外,也顧慮到他們可能會把他們的生活方式及道德標準強加身上。很多人語勢持持的聲明尊重其他宗教,但約遇到其他人仕批評或質疑他們的信念時,他們會以一切的方式去捍衞。但在這裏生活經驗中體會到他們對這句話的傳譯,包括他人以與他們相異的生活方式或不應同他們的宗教觀點時,他們均視為冒犯,更不惜動武。
很多朋友問,宗教那麼虔誠的人,為什麼常動武,這點可能是原因之一。另一存在因素是貧窮、受教育率低。很多阿拉伯人不太深諳經文,甚或不識字,往往被一小眾人仕向他們灌予思想,深信只有依斯蘭才有他們現有的權利。與外界的接觸越多,他們開始認識到其他原來也同樣可行的生活方式。
阿拉伯國家女子文盲率偏高,貧窮是其中一最主要原因,而女子往往是發展中國家的先頭受害者,希望盡所能去幫助她們。阿拉伯國家除了大學教育是男女混合制外,全是男女分校的。在沙特阿拉伯,男教師更不能面對面直接教授女學生,只能透過媒體對答,而只有女學生才能從電視營幕看見男教師,男教師從沒有看過女生的模樣。



78 Comments on "Ramadan在聚利亞"
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